Friday, October 25, 2019

Table Wreaths

I found this table wreath, and really liked it. With a candle, a small vase, a handful of ornaments in the center, it's really a nice table brightener! So, I decided to try.

Wednesday, February 13, 2019

I Finally Finished This


I love a quilt with movement!!
Whether you call it 'Mirage' or 'Fractal', or 'Sparkly', this is an interesting quilt. This has been on my table for awhile. I started it with a plan in mind, set it aside when I got frustrated and had other things that needed to be done. When I came back I forgot my plan, so didn't continue on as I had begun. Which meant tearing half of it down, and trying to 'make them fit' the original plan... Always a mistake. Anyway! It's done. And here's how I did it.

Tip: Before you begin, think about colors. When you put a dark and a light figured with dark together (see the left side above, you get a much more 'fractured' look, putting similar weight tones give this quilt a much different look (again, see above).


Alternate Idea: Just thought about this, but this would make a great 'quilt as you go' pattern, putting each block together, and building them into strips of blocks, then add batting and backing, quilt, at least around the big block, then pin the next finished strip, top to top, patterns facing, bottom to bottom, patterns facing, then sew them together, add batting and quilt, then on to the next. - Ok, this is no longer an idea, I'm building it now. I needed to make up some blocks and strips for this 'tutorial', so I just kept on...


Alternate Idea 2: Want a puffier center? Cut the top block to be 5 3/4", and a plain block 5", ease the tops together, leaving 1/2 of one side open, stuff (with some high loft batting or even stuffing), sew closed, sew the small triangle strips on as detailed below, then on to the next block.


Alternate Idea 3: This would make a great 'finished puzzle' pattern, with the 2 different colored small triangles in each set of small triangles being the interlocking piece of each puzzle piece.




The Basics:

Each block consists of a center square or quarter-square triangle block (consisting of 4 half-square triangles) that is cut to 5", and 28 surrounding small quarter-square triangles which are cut to 1 1/4". (2 1/2", which when you trim the corners is 2" across the base of the triangle.) In each strip of 7 small triangles, 5 will match the center block and 2 (the second and sixth) will match the next block in your series. You will use these two to alert you to which blocks will be sewed together into a strip, if you aren't putting them together as you make the blocks. Scroll down to the images below, get a better idea of how the blocks go together.

Very Important: In assembling, it is very important with this quilt to be sure you are sewing SCANT 1/4" seams. This is especially true for the small strips of triangles. What is scant? I am sure that there are several definitions. For this quilt, it's not as wide as a 1/4" seam, it's actually best if it's several threads under a 1/4" or the blocks don't lay flat. You should make some test blocks to see what works best for you. Just because they are 'test blocks' doesn't mean you can't make them work in your quilt.


If you are unable to make scant 1/4" seams, consider changing the big block size to 4 3/4", to determine if this will give you the look you want.



I often cut the big quarter square triangles bigger than needed and square them up when sewn into the square, but the small, I cut exactly 1 1/4"  as there is no real opportunity to square them up. 

It's important to remember, there is no one tool for measuring that is better than another, or any one way to cut your pieces for assembling, it's all about preference. For the little triangles, I cut them in strips and then cut out the 28 I need for each square. With the bigger, I cut each piece separately, because I only need 2 of each color.


With this quilt, you must have some space to lay out at least some your blocks, so that you know what pieces will be next to and under each block, this is because your sets of small triangles will include both block colors within the strip. Once you have a couple of rows finished, you can just fold them under (or hang them over the side,) and keep laying out the next set of rows.


I lay out the big blocks, and then arrange my bags of small triangles next to me. I start building all the small strips for the pieces I have laying out. Only then do I start assembling the blocks. 



As you attach the strips, place to strip so that the seam of the small triangle is in the corner of the big block. Double check to be sure that the second and sixth strip of the alternate color are on the sew line. To sew the strip to the block you begin at the seam of the first triangle and sew to the seam of the last, which will leave 1/4" from the end unsewed or open. This will be where you will sew on the next strip, allowing the corners to match up and so make the block come together correctly.  On the seconds set of small triangles for the same block, first match the corners, by laying the second strip on the opened and ironed first strip. Match the 'corner' of the first triangles, and sew to the seam, remove from the sewing machine and gently pull the second strip along to the line of the big square. The alternate colored triangle should be the first triangle along the side of the square. The opposite end should reach the end of the side of the square, with the seam of the last triangle in the corner. Stitch the side down. 


Once several blocks are completely, you would then attach each of the blocks matching the colors of the small triangles to the color of the next block. If you're not planning to quilt as you go, you could then put the strips together, into a quilt corner, fold it under with just the last portion showing, and continue to lay out the next section.
To create a puffy centered block, you need a bigger and regular sized block. These are 5 3/4", that would be eased onto (wrong sides together) a regular 5" (plain, it will be covered later) block. One half of one side would be left open to stuff, and then sewn closed. Then the small triangle sets would be sewn to the block.


How to Quilt As You Go!

You start by laying the corner, batting and corner backing together as a sandwich, with the batting inside and the right sides facing out. Pin it together, you will want to use a lot, to keep it from slipping, then sew 1/4 inch from the outside edge. Once finished, you will want to 'quilt' the squares in the corner in whatever pattern you have chosen. Then on to the next strip.

What I wish I had done differently? Square up each block. I started, then stopped, for no reason, but I wish I had, things would have been smoother and easier if I had.


Saturday, January 26, 2019

Memory Pillows

Memory Pillows are not hard to make, but they do take time. Here's how I make mine. I start by deciding how many photo's I will be using. Each of the samples here shown have 16 images. I could have 4, or 1, or any number. My next will have a center image, and smaller satellite images. I cut my image pages down, and quilt them together, but you don't have to. I use very crisp, clear images.


Once I have decided how many photo's and how I will arrange them, I move on to printing. I have an inkjet printer (one of the cheapest made, I have to admit,) and I purchased printable cotton JACQUARD brand sheets to print my images onto. They don't always move through easily, but I have found if I put the paper side up, and put a bend, like I am going to fold the bottom up about 1/2" from the bottom, but don't actually fold it all the way up, so it creates a small bend, I have pretty good luck.


Once printed, they must sit for at least 8 hours before you do anything with them, to be sure that they are completely 'dry', and wont smear. I leave them over-night, which gives them more than 8 hours to be ready for the next step, which is ironing, with a steam iron. I iron and let them cool several times, to be sure that the colors have set as far into the cotton as possible. 
Then what I have usually done, but don't always do, after ironing, is douse them in pan of cold water, keeping them flat - doing this will cause the images to become a little fuzzy, as the colors will run a bit once they get wet. After they dry, it's back to the drawing board. Another option I have tried is to spray them with Scotchgard Fabric Craft Protector, again, the photo's will get a little fuzzy, almost imperceptibly so, but the fabric is protected. Now you can treat your images like fabric. and sew them into your project. Not all inks will work with the Scotchgard, test everything! 


Quick tip - trick to making an easy collage: Using a smart phone and a collage program (I used Collageable), pull your images together, get them into the right place within the collage, and you can adjust the image once it's in the collage frame. Save it, send it to your computer to print it and et voila. If you print from your phone, you get a very small image printed. From your computer, it's the size you choose to make it.