Figment Reversible, Double Purse or Bag

Finished, with the light side out	Finished, the dark side out	Showing the double sided bag
fBag cut out, pieced top	Stitching in the interfacing and darts	Putting it all together
Putting it all together - 2	Making the bag 2-sided	Stitching and turning
Continuing the 'Build'	Getting ready to add the strap/band

 

Poinsettia Wall or Door Hanging

I saw something similar, years ago, that's been percolating in my brain. Though it doesn't have to be a door hanging, could be a table decoration, however.

I looked at some poinsettia's and then started creating the leaves from the green and blue foam. I used the top from a 'cake take, to make a big circle a couple of inches or so from the end of the foam, and then a serving dish a couple inches from the other end, and a ruler to bring them together, for one petal. Another, I used only the 'cake take' circle, and a ruler to make straight lines to the end. These are for general shape, as no two leaves are exactly the same in nature. I made a smaller set using other bowls. The heavy white canvas is for the back, and various reds, including flannel and cottons/mixes will make the leaves. I thought the canvas might be stiff enough to hold the leaves up, but it's not, so I am working on a plan to make them stiffer.

I cut out 8 large leaves and 4 small. each of the small are also cut out of a mesh with sparkles, of reds and canvas. Laying right sides together and a 1/4 seam (leaving about 4" open on a straight edge), I put them together, clipped the seams and trimmed the point, turned and top-stitched along the edge. Using a cup, I cut out a small circle in green, covered it in two layers of gold mesh with sparkles which was cut about 1/2" bigger, turned the gold under and zig-zagged it onto the green along the edge. I cut out leaves from the small pattern, in different greens, and when the rain ends, I will finish those.

I'm making several of these, each will probably be made differently, as I work to the build the optimum process and materials, and I will update when I have finished.
Note: on the 2nd attempt, I put batting in the petals, a pocket for a dowel rod in the back, and sewed in place only by sewing down the center and the small petals (the center seam and the bottom half around the edge.) See photo's below.

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  I created my pattern on foam and began

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  My first 4 petals, they are all different

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  More petals are slowly finished

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  All 8 big petals finished!

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  Layout - center and small petals

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  A different view of petals

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  All big petals - pin in place

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  Reviewing and re-arranging

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  Petals all sewed down

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  Now to make the leaves

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  I just move things to eat, and then back to it.

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  2nd attempt, I'm using batting

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  I left enough for a pocket on back

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  2 full batting, others partially

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  Laying out my 2nd Poinsettia

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  Trying to show the glitteriness

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  Sewing down the center is NOT Fast or easy

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  The back, with all the pockets

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  I think that the batting makes a difference

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  How it looks almost finished

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  Another view almost finished

Child-sized Take Along

My child-sized take along. A handy thing for a young person to have, to keep their toys stowed and together. This is the first one of these I've made, and it's imperfect, but I learned a lot along the way. First, I wouldn't use flannel again. It's a left over from mask making, so I used it here. Second, I won't 'fold-in' space in pockets again.

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  Hang it anywhere

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  Folds up neatly

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  The fold area and pockets

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  Laid flat, you can see the roominess

Here's how I built it. Or how I would, were I not using scraps. The interior fabric needs to be a strong enough fabric to take a beating and hold itself together, in shape. I like the pre-quilted fabric for that, or an upholstery fabric. The exterior and pockets should be a fun fabric. My bag is 12x24ish, though I will make the next 16x28-30". Before sewing, fold the interior fabric in half, and then pin up from the fold 1", this is the bottom of the brief case, and should not have a pocket anywhere in this space.

1st Pocket: Interior fabric only! My strip here is 4-1/2" high and 21" long, with elastic zig-zagged along the top and then hemmed. I laid it on the edge of the interior fabric, pinning it on at the 1/2" mark. Then with a quilt ruler, pinned it down at every 1-1/2", using my thumb (though anything else would also work) inside as a spacing quide, before pinning each 1-1/2" pocket. After pinning, I sewed the individual pocket seams down, leaving a 1/2" at the bottom to fold under. Once all the 'side seams' were in, I folded under the bottom, creating a fold in each individual pocket, and sewed it down. What I learned and what I will do different next time: 

1. I should have used a pencil and marked exactly where the top of each pocket should align on the quilted fabric, I will next time to keep it straighter. 

2. I will put in two lines of wide stitching along the bottom, to gather the bottom when hemming, rather than folding it.

2nd Pocket: Interior fabric only! This pocket is 9" tall and 15" wide, with an inset zipper. I put the zipper in 2" from the top, hemmed the pocket all the way around 1/4" deep, and then ironed in a one inch double fold all around, matched the sides so that they were all the way to the edge, then sewed it down.

What I learned and what I will do different next time: 

1. I will put in two lines of wide stitching along all four sides, to gather the bottom when hemming, rather than folding it.

2. I wont hem first, I will hem as I go, on future projects.

3. I will have to use a pencil and marked exactly where the top and bottom of each gathered seam of the pocket should align on the quilted fabric, to keep it straight. 

3rd/Whole side Pocket: Interior fabric only! This pocket is 15" x 15".  Learning from the first two, this one has double seam, wide stitch gathering along all four sides. It also has an inset zipper (both zippers are 9"). First, gather the top and the bottom so that they are both flush with the sides of the interior piece. I pinned 1/2" up from the bottom fold for this side (up from the 1" fold taken along the bottom, setting in a 1/4 hem as I went, and stitched it down, then do the same about 1-1/2 inch from the top of that side. Then gather the sides so that they fit the pockets size and stitch them in 1/4-1/2" from the sides, being sure the fabric is flush with the sides of the quilted fabric. Having the binding over all the fabrics (pockets and outside) helps make them stronger and looks neater.

Lay the pocketed side down, and then lay the exterior fabric with the pattern up together, and zig-zag along the edge. This makes it easier to add the binding. The binding goes on next, I used prepackaged here, but usually make my own. 

Finally, make two handles of the exterior and pocket fabric by taking 16"x1 or 2" (depends how much fabric you like to fold under) strips, folding under and sewing down along one side. Center (about 4" from each end) the  these straps 1 to 1-1/2" into the fabric and sew along the bottom, top and both sides, and then add a couple of X's to be sure that they stay affixed (remember, this is for a child, and they are not known for the delicacy with which they handle things.)

Table Wreaths

I found this table wreath, and really liked it. With a candle, a small vase, a handful of ornaments in the center, it's really a nice table brightener! So, I decided to try.

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  This was my goal, to create these

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  I started with scraps, even of the 'filling'

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  Sewing on the patio is always a nice day

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  My 6" and 8" squares are begun

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  Pinned and Ready to top-stitch

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  Top stitching the green onto Red

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  Working on 'turned squares'

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  Pinning the pieces together, to get size right

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  Working on correct dimensions

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  Finally got the angle the right size

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  Sewn and trimming

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  Hand-stitching the openings

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  On to the next

I Finally Finished This

I love a quilt with movement!!

Whether you call it 'Mirage' or 'Fractal', or 'Sparkly', this is an interesting quilt. This has been on my table for awhile. I started it with a plan in mind, set it aside when I got frustrated and had other things that needed to be done. When I came back I forgot my plan, so didn't continue on as I had begun. Which meant tearing half of it down, and trying to 'make them fit' the original plan... Always a mistake. Anyway! It's done. And here's how I did it.

Tip: Before you begin, think about colors. When you put a dark and a light figured with dark together (see the left side above, you get a much more 'fractured' look, putting similar weight tones give this quilt a much different look (again, see above).

Alternate Idea: Just thought about this, but this would make a great 'quilt as you go' pattern, putting each block together, and building them into strips of blocks, then add batting and backing, quilt, at least around the big block, then pin the next finished strip, top to top, patterns facing, bottom to bottom, patterns facing, then sew them together, add batting and quilt, then on to the next. - Ok, this is no longer an idea, I'm building it now. I needed to make up some blocks and strips for this 'tutorial', so I just kept on...

Alternate Idea 2: Want a puffier center? Cut the top block to be 5 3/4", and a plain block 5", ease the tops together, leaving 1/2 of one side open, stuff (with some high loft batting or even stuffing), sew closed, sew the small triangle strips on as detailed below, then on to the next block.

Alternate Idea 3: This would make a great 'finished puzzle' pattern, with the 2 different colored small triangles in each set of small triangles being the interlocking piece of each puzzle piece.

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  Quilt I Began with this How-To

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  It's now a gifted 'Quilt of Valor'

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  Note how the colors work together

The Basics:

Each block consists of a center square or quarter-square triangle block (consisting of 4 half-square triangles) that is cut to 5", and 28 surrounding small quarter-square triangles which are cut to 1 1/4". (2 1/2", which when you trim the corners is 2" across the base of the triangle.) In each strip of 7 small triangles, 5 will match the center block and 2 (the second and sixth) will match the next block in your series. You will use these two to alert you to which blocks will be sewed together into a strip, if you aren't putting them together as you make the blocks. Scroll down to the images below, get a better idea of how the blocks go together.

Very Important: In assembling, it is very important with this quilt to be sure you are sewing SCANT 1/4" seams. This is especially true for the small strips of triangles. What is scant? I am sure that there are several definitions. For this quilt, it's not as wide as a 1/4" seam, it's actually best if it's several threads under a 1/4" or the blocks don't lay flat. You should make some test blocks to see what works best for you. Just because they are 'test blocks' doesn't mean you can't make them work in your quilt.

If you are unable to make scant 1/4" seams, consider changing the big block size to 4 3/4", to determine if this will give you the look you want.

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  5" Center Block

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  Half-square Triangle for sides (3 3/4")

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  Small Quarter Square (showing size)

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  2 1/2" long end, small triangle

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  Trim 1/4 inch off each end with 1" center marked

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  To achieve earless triangles, they might be easier to work with -

I often cut the big quarter square triangles bigger than needed and square them up when sewn into the square, but the small, I cut exactly 1 1/4"  as there is no real opportunity to square them up. 

It's important to remember, there is no one tool for measuring that is better than another, or any one way to cut your pieces for assembling, it's all about preference. For the little triangles, I cut them in strips and then cut out the 28 I need for each square. With the bigger, I cut each piece separately, because I only need 2 of each color.

With this quilt, you must have some space to lay out at least some your blocks, so that you know what pieces will be next to and under each block, this is because your sets of small triangles will include both block colors within the strip. Once you have a couple of rows finished, you can just fold them under (or hang them over the side,) and keep laying out the next set of rows.

I lay out the big blocks, and then arrange my bags of small triangles next to me. I start building all the small strips for the pieces I have laying out. Only then do I start assembling the blocks. 

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  Laying out blocks, for color determination

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  Laying out all the pieces of the blocks

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  Small Triangle sets, I do the sets together

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  Setting strip and square together to sew

As you attach the strips, place to strip so that the seam of the small triangle is in the corner of the big block. Double check to be sure that the second and sixth strip of the alternate color are on the sew line. To sew the strip to the block you begin at the seam of the first triangle and sew to the seam of the last, which will leave 1/4" from the end unsewed or open. This will be where you will sew on the next strip, allowing the corners to match up and so make the block come together correctly.  On the seconds set of small triangles for the same block, first match the corners, by laying the second strip on the opened and ironed first strip. Match the 'corner' of the first triangles, and sew to the seam, remove from the sewing machine and gently pull the second strip along to the line of the big square. The alternate colored triangle should be the first triangle along the side of the square. The opposite end should reach the end of the side of the square, with the seam of the last triangle in the corner. Stitch the side down. 

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  Setting strip and half-square to sew

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  Corner with triangle strip

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  Pin the ends and sew them first

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  Sew the corners first, up to the stitched line

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  Finishing the triangle stitching

Once several blocks are completely, you would then attach each of the blocks matching the colors of the small triangles to the color of the next block. If you're not planning to quilt as you go, you could then put the strips together, into a quilt corner, fold it under with just the last portion showing, and continue to lay out the next section.

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  Stitching the blocks together

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  Deterrent to getting work done

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  Laying out the pieces, I keep small triangles in bags

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  Strip sets, 1, 2, finished

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  Strips of blocks slowly coming together!

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  There is no one right tool!

To create a puffy centered block, you need a bigger and regular sized block. These are 5 3/4", that would be eased onto (wrong sides together) a regular 5" (plain, it will be covered later) block. One half of one side would be left open to stuff, and then sewn closed. Then the small triangle sets would be sewn to the block.

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  Center block - one piece 5 3/4" for puffy

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  Center block 5 3/4" quarter square triangles

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  Quarter-Square triangles 3" cut for puffy

How to Quilt As You Go!

You start by laying the corner, batting and corner backing together as a sandwich, with the batting inside and the right sides facing out. Pin it together, you will want to use a lot, to keep it from slipping, then sew 1/4 inch from the outside edge. Once finished, you will want to 'quilt' the squares in the corner in whatever pattern you have chosen. Then on to the next strip.

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  Pin on your backing for the next row

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  Pin on your quilt squares or the next row

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  Sew on the squares and backing, then pull down

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  Add batting between top and backing, and pin

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  Laid out to finish then attach next row

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  Getting my quilting done!

What I wish I had done differently? Square up each block. I started, then stopped, for no reason, but I wish I had, things would have been smoother and easier if I had.