How To's: reusable

Showing posts with label reusable. Show all posts

Tuesday, December 19, 2023

Figment Reversible, Double Purse or Bag

Finished, with the light side out

Finished, the dark side out

Showing the double sided bag

fBag cut out, pieced top

Stitching in the interfacing and darts

Putting it all together

Putting it all together - 2

Making the bag 2-sided

Stitching and turning

Continuing the 'Build'

Getting ready to add the strap/band

Saturday, October 16, 2021

Super Simple Two-sided Aprons

Making Aprons can be simple and they are fun to give. A gift that can be used over and over, and enjoyed by both giver and receiver! Mine are reversible, just as easy to make as one sided, making them more 'seasonal.

Here's how I did it. The first time I made them, they were all in the same fabric, and I made a paper pattern using newspaper, to cut them all out. The second time, I simply used a measuring stick or tape, and a straight edged ruler (a quilting ruler in my case.) I started with a list of who I was making them for, decided on the fabric for each, and added that next to the name, then counted how many of each I would need. For adults, I cut the fabric I had purchased in 3 foot lengths. Each 3 foot length would be 2 apron sides. For the kids sizes, I made them 2 and 1/2 foot lengths for taller/bigger kids, 2 foot for our 5-8 year old's (and 3, but I sewed in a big fold, with long stitches that would easily pull out, because 3 grows quickly.) I did not make the kids narrower, as covering more rather than less kid felt like the right direction. As most fabrics are 40-45 inches wide, this will make each apron front 20-22 and 1/2 inches wide.

Once the lengths were cut, I marked the top of each with a pin and then for the adults marked off 4 inches on either side of the pin (making an 8 inch center top of the apron.) For the kids I marked off 3 and 1/2 inches for the bigger one's and 3 inches to either side of the center pin for the other's. Once the center tops were marked, using my handy ruler, I marked the angle to cut by selecting 12" (see the image below.) I then cut along the side angle lines, and then cut along the fold of fabric and had one side of 2 aprons cut out. Hold on to those corners for the next project!

Apron pattern for varied sizes

I continued until I had all the sides cut, and put them together with their 'other side' folded and set them aside for sewing. Before putting them together, you need 'straps', which can be tied/buckled (both neck and center) or a combination of tied/buckled and solid. They can be made of the same fabric that your aprons are, and if they are, you will need to cut for each adult (1 and 1/2 inch wide) 2 - 36 inch ties for the 'waist' and 1 - 24" for the top (that's what I used, but measure the length on yourself to be sure it fits, but don't forget to include the top of your apron in the size.) For the kids, I used 24 inches for the 'waist' and 20 inches for the top, although I used lace or ribbon or paracord on mine, to better match both sides of the apron.

Right sides together place straps

Straps pinned in, ready to sew

Strap sewed in, side sewing begun

Once you have everything (and if your using matching fabric ties, sewn along each side at 1/4 inch seams, turned to the right side, ironed and topstitched) pin the wrong sides of your apron together. Place the top strap inside, laying the right sides of match fabric together at the top of the apron, 1/4 inch from the edges. Lay the right side apron back into place matching the sides of the apron. You should now have the front and back (holiday and non-holiday in my case, pinned together, with the top strap inside.) Sew the left side strap on, reversing to be sure it's in place to stay, 1/4 inch from the edge (at the end of the strap section) turn and sew down the angled side, using a 1/4 inch seam.

Stop where the straight edge begins/turns, and lay in that sides tie, again, leaving the tie inside and matching fabrics. Sew the strap in, reversing to get it in good, and continue to finish other side in the same manner, leaving the top of the apron open. Once the right strap is sewed down, you can pull the right sides through, pull it tight to the stitching, iron and top stitch, 1/4 inch seams along all sides, except the top, that will need to be sewn just over the fold.

Reversible with Holiday and non-holiday sides

Matching, both non-holiday are dragonfly fabric

Sometimes, the color theme is what matches

It's not too difficult to 'size' them to fit everyone

Note the fold in the smallest, easy to 'let out'

Remember those corner pieces that were cut from the top of the aprons? I put them together, a little randomly, to create pot holders. With two random squares of fabric, some batting and a a little binding, these aprons will go to their reciepients with a 'sorta matching' pot holder, to make the gift even better.

Choose your pieces

Once begun you can chain stitch them

After stitching they will require pressing!

Stuffed with 'wrap & zap' and stitched

Finished with bias tape!

Tuesday, August 18, 2020

Poinsettia Wall or Door Hanging

I saw something similar, years ago, that's been percolating in my brain. Though it doesn't have to be a door hanging, could be a table decoration, however.

I looked at some poinsettia's and then started creating the leaves from the green and blue foam. I used the top from a 'cake take, to make a big circle a couple of inches or so from the end of the foam, and then a serving dish a couple inches from the other end, and a ruler to bring them together, for one petal. Another, I used only the 'cake take' circle, and a ruler to make straight lines to the end. These are for general shape, as no two leaves are exactly the same in nature. I made a smaller set using other bowls. The heavy white canvas is for the back, and various reds, including flannel and cottons/mixes will make the leaves. I thought the canvas might be stiff enough to hold the leaves up, but it's not, so I am working on a plan to make them stiffer.

I cut out 8 large leaves and 4 small. each of the small are also cut out of a mesh with sparkles, of reds and canvas. Laying right sides together and a 1/4 seam (leaving about 4" open on a straight edge), I put them together, clipped the seams and trimmed the point, turned and top-stitched along the edge. Using a cup, I cut out a small circle in green, covered it in two layers of gold mesh with sparkles which was cut about 1/2" bigger, turned the gold under and zig-zagged it onto the green along the edge. I cut out leaves from the small pattern, in different greens, and when the rain ends, I will finish those.

I'm making several of these, each will probably be made differently, as I work to the build the optimum process and materials, and I will update when I have finished.
Note: on the 2nd attempt, I put batting in the petals, a pocket for a dowel rod in the back, and sewed in place only by sewing down the center and the small petals (the center seam and the bottom half around the edge.) See photo's below.

I created my pattern on foam and began
My first 4 petals, they are all different
More petals are slowly finished
All 8 big petals finished!
Layout - center and small petals
A different view of petals
All big petals - pin in place
Reviewing and re-arranging
Petals all sewed down
Now to make the leaves
I just move things to eat, and then back to it.

2nd attempt, I'm using batting
I left enough for a pocket on back
2 full batting, others partially
Laying out my 2nd Poinsettia
Trying to show the glitteriness
Sewing down the center is NOT Fast or easy
The back, with all the pockets
I think that the batting makes a difference
How it looks almost finished
Another view almost finished

Thursday, March 26, 2020

Face Masks

Regular size:

- one 6.5” x 9.5” cotton exterior layer
- one 6.5” x 9.5” flannel inner exterior layer
- two 6.5” x 9.5” cotton (unseen) interior layer
- 4 Strings (at least 18” long) or, a 7” piece of rolled elastic knotted on both ends, or whatever you will use to affix this to a face.

Lay right side of external layers to right side of internal layers, and sew along top (as determined by any external layer decor) 1/4” from edge. Turn so that right sides face out, fold along seam line and press.
Lay one external right side up and place strings 1/4ish” below top and 3/8ish” on both right and left side, the end flush with the side of the fabric extending to the center (at the center, turn tied so they extend out the top. The elastic should be placed at the same top location, and extend down to the bottom. Knots should overlap the edge, but only just. Pin in place.
Lay right sides of external layers together. Pin sides and bottom. Starting at the top, stitch sides and bottom with 1/4” seam, being sure to catch the strings/elastic. Clip corners, turn, press.
Match tops and pin together. Decorative side topmost, Fold in half, lengthwise. Pin through all layers, marking fold line on right and left side, open back out. Decorative side topmost, fold under to pin you just placed, pin marking fold line. Do the same from the bottom. You should now have 3 equidistant pins along the sides.
Fold first line again and almost a 1/2” down, pin a tuck on both sides. Do the same with the other 2 pinned markings.
The tucks can go up or down, whichever, but not both. Either both are up or they are down.
Top Stitch tucks down - Match tops and approx 3” from right side sew 1/4” along to right corner. At corner, turn and continue, sewing tucks in place. Either back up over each tuck, or do this step from the top, twice. At approx. 1/4” from the bottom, turn and continue top stitching, at approx. 1/4 from left side, turn and continue top stitching, and the same at the top for approx. 3”, leaving at least a 2” opening for the insertion of a filter. Trim.